World Cup, Germany

(June 8-13) When we got off the train in Duisburg, Germany we could hear the chants and cheers of drunken fans (at 2pm, no less) in the train station and we knew we had finally made it to soccer paradise. Our hotel was conveniently placed right at the train station so we didn´t have to lug our gear very far. I won´t waste time describing Duisburg because there isn´t much to say. Maybe the honeymoon phase of our trip has ended but stepping off the train platform in that industrial gray German town did not sweep me off my feet. Duisburg provided us a room with a shower and our own bed so we were grateful for it but not enamored by it.

On the opening day of World Cup Matt and I had tickets to see the Poland vs. Ecuador game in Gelsenkirchen at 9pm. Not wanting to miss a thing we left Duisburg at noon. Even though we were told you could set your watches to the efficient German trains we didn´t want to take our chances. As it was our train was a half an hour behind schedule. That still gave us nearly 8 hours before the match kicked off. On our train we saw flashes of red for Poland and the bright yellow, blue and red for Ecuador.

Off the train we followed the well marked signs to the FIFA World Cup Fan Fest. The Fan Fest is where the sponsors seduce you with large screens to watch the games, with thousands of other fans, while not so subtly pushing their wares down your throat. Matt and I were willing victims. We came to Germany to immerse ourselves in all things soccer and no better place to do that in the belly of the corporate beast. We arrived at the Fan Fest before it opened up and as we waited we saw the Ecuador and Poland fans slowly growing in congregations paying homage to their beloved countries. What impressed me right away was the true spirit of brotherhood. Fans from opposing teams sang together, cheered together and snapped hundreds of photos together. Love for the beautiful game united the hearts of all.

About an hour before the Germany vs. Costa Rica game started the Fan Fest finally started to fill up. Matt and I found ourselves seated right in between German and Polish fans. We had no idea about the anomosity between the two countries but we soon got a big taste of it. They each took turns chanting their country slogans and cheers each time growing in volume and hostility. Both sides even resorted to cheering for the team that their enemy was playing against. Never in my life did I imagine German fans cheering for Ecuador and visa versa. We felt somewhat secure in the event that fights broke out because we were flanked by the German military and police.

When the game finally started and Germany was the first to strike blood the crowd was literally foaming at the mouths with excitment. I have to admit I felt a pange of regret for not having a ridiculous hat and my face painted in honor of my country. It wasn´t enough to be there in Germany supporting your country you also had to wear the part.

We left at halftime with Germany ahead to get to the stadium to watch our match. Our seats were in the nosebleeds where we practically needed oxygen. We felt fortunate to be placed in the Ecuador section because they were literally outnumbered by the Polish fans screaming, Polska, nearly ten to one. We thought the underdogs needed some loving. The game, the fans, the fury was everything we thought it could be and more. We both had a bit of an out of body experience. Two years of planning for the biggest soccer celebration on earth. The Ecuador fans went nuts when the final whistle was blown with them clenching a 2-0 victory. You would hardly guess that Poland lost because the fans were celebrating and congratulating each other just grateful to be there in the world´s arena.