Malaysia & Mauritius

(Nov 5-Nov 22) It was bittersweet for us to leave Thailand. We landed softly there into the warm embrace of our friends who shared with us their friends and their dogs and their cool beaches and their fabulous restaurants. It was a whole lot of goodness going around but more importantly it was something familiar and it felt like home. We've been officially homeless for six months now. Vagabonds for half a year and we haven't run out of money, killed or mamed each other, yet. It doesn't phase either one of us to repack our bags, go to an airport, fly to a foreign country, eat questionable plane food, disembark, go through customs, collect our bags and figure our where the heck we are. It's just like clocking into work. It's what we do.

Malaysia was a cushy landing similar to Thailand. Kuala Lumpur is very modern and westernized. I think KL surpassed Bangkok with the number of American chain stores and restaurants, the reigning leader in both countries being 7-Eleven. It's comforting, in a sick demented way, to see hotdogs continously spinning around under the glow of heat lamps just like home. The 7-Elevens are a beakon of light, an air conditioned oasis, clean and obsessively organized they are everything the 7-Eleven's in the States are not.

With only 5 days in Malaysia it didn't give us alot of room to maneuver. KL was oppressively hot and muggy which made exploring the streets exhausting. We found shelter in our two favorite places, the mall and the metro trains, allowing just enough time for the frigid air to make goosebumps on our arms and legs before stepping back into the sauna outside. Kuala Lumpur is a very accessible city with multiple means of transportation at your disposal. Not only is transport varied the food is an electic mix of Malaysian, Thai, Chinese and Indian. Matt and I dipped our roti and naan into to thick flavorful curries savouring each bite and while simultaneously opening a button of our pants to give room. The highlight for both of us was going up into the Petronas Towers which are currently the world's tallest buildings. The Petronas Towers are truly a work of art. The design is so sleek and functional combining modern with classic Muslim architecture.

At the airport in Mauritius a man held up our names scribbled on a white piece of paper. Matt and I were relieved to find our driver because we were approached by at least a dozen and we hadn't taken as many steps. He drove us to our hotel at the northern part of the island a mere 60 minute drive from one end to the other. The perfectly paved road took us past a sea of sugar fields and nearly as many roundabouts. By the time we reached our destination I was alittle green from all the turns. We found our quaint little hotel just before dark. No address was a big problem for both the customs agents who demand to see your passport, confirmation of hotel accomodation and most importantly your return ticket home. Of all the countries Matt and I have traveled to Mauritius was the most concerned about where we were going next. They make it very clear they don't want you staying any longer than your itinery. They'll take your money for 7 days if that's what you scheduled but no more than that.

A small family headed by Gun ran the hotel we were staying at. Gun was a man at your disposal. Laundry, meals, boats, buses he knew it all or could provide it all. Being the only ones in the hotel we became just like family, visiting relatives if you will. For breakfast Gun and his wife, sometimes followed by their very curious bubbly girl of 4, would bring us bread, freshly cut fruit, juice and coffee which we would take on our balcony overlooking the ocean. Sometimes for dinner they would cook us a delicious home cooked Mauritian meal that was both inexpensive and plentiful. The beaches of Mauritius are impressive but after coming from Thailand we didn't really see what the huge draw is for Mauritius. It took us about a day to change our tunes. We fell in love with the island, the beaches, the people, the food as the cheap and efficient bus system that made exploring the island pleasurable. We took day trips to the botanical gardens and into the capital of Port Louis which is a town with similar architecture to the French Quarter in New Orleans. Being a former French and British Colony it is more influenced by it's French occupiers than the English. Although for us we were happy that the Brits had made their mark there as nearly everyone speaks both English and French.

Port Louis is an impressive city that's enjoyable to explore by foot. We were both captivated by the fruits and spices displayed so colorfully at the central market. Plenty of people approached us in a clandestine manner inquiring to our desire to purchase vanilla. At the central market Matt and I went from stall to stall sampling the cheap eats that the vendors were selling. For about the price of 2 bucks we tried roti with spicey curry, a chicken sandwich, a vanilla icecream drink and freshly squeezed juice. It was fast food at it's best. We climbed up to the Citadel to see Port Louis from a higher vantage point. We were there just as the noon Muslim call to prayer was being sounded from countless mosques across town. It was a beautiful harmony echoing around us. The people of Mauritius originate primarily from Indonesia and India with pockets of Middle Eastern influence. The people are mostly Hindu as well as Muslim with smatterings of Christians and everyone gets along.

Mark Twain was right when he said God created Heaven after Mauritius.