Phnom Penh & Siem Reap, Cambodia

(Sept. 22-Sept. 30) The difference between Thailand and Cambodia was apparent as soon as we passed through Customs and out the doors being greeted by a chorus of taxi drivers imploring us to take a ride with them. Sure we had our fair share of tuk tuk, moto and taxi drivers in Thailand, mostly in Bangkok, honk at us hoping we may want a ride. A simple shrug of the head and they would move on. The Cambodians are different, they hardly take no for an answer. A no only makes the whine go up a notch in volume. We continue to amaze ourselves with our stupidity when it comes to traveling. Instead of thumbing through our guide on the short plane ride to Phnom Penh we waited until we were surrounded by drivers to decide on a place drawing the most amount of attention to the fact that we had no idea what we were doing. Still at 7 bucks the ride to the guest house on the lake was cheap by our standards.

It took me until the second day in Cambodia to realize that they drive on the same side of the road as in the States. Thailand is the opposite. Not like rules readily apply to driving in general here in Cambodia or even in Thailand. Sitting in the back seat of our air conditioned taxi I saw a woman side saddling on the back of a moto while breast feeding her infant child as her husband was driving with one hand and dangling a series of pots filled with what I assume was lunch in the other hand. Not a helmet in sight. Seeing four people is totally normal on a moto. Anything and everything can get stacked on and around a moto from coconuts to a basket filled with pigs. I'll post some photos of my favorites when I get a good connection.

The level of poverty in Cambodia has hit me harder then I care to admit. The 20 minute drive to our guest house awakened something in me that I hadn't felt since I left Senegal, a mixture of despair and indignation for the disparity of people. It's hard not to feel as though I am apart of the problem when I directly benefit from the economics of poverty. We joke that Cambodia is a giant dollar store because somehow if by magic everything costs one dollar. Taxi rides, food, even trinkets all add up to one dollar, and U.S. currency is preferred. The people speak English incredibly well for being formerly colonized by the French. They make it easy for the traveller, especially cheapos like Matt and I, to adjust when we can use our own greenbacks and speak English without having to bother to learn even basic phrases in Khmer.

My days in Senegal hardened me to harassment. Daily I was asked, pleaded with, taunted and heckled with requests of all kind. From a hand in marriage, to a cadeau (gift), to money to even a lock of my hair, nothing was off limits from the Senegalese to demand from me. I do not treasure the fact that I have a certain way of channeling off the cries of the needy. The Senegalese did force you to at least acknowledge them, they wouldn't allow you to just walk by unnoticed. The Cambodians are very similiar in that regard. The children in front of the Wat's in Siem Reap, known more famously as Angkor Wat, do just that. They swarm you with their trinkets running alongside you barefooted, clothes tattered begging that you buy their merchandise. "One dollar. 5 for a dollar, ok ok 10 for a dollar. You no buy I cry. Yes thank you, not no thank you. Sorry doesn't make me happy. Sorry only makes me feel sadder" On and on it goes. Eyes that plead with you, guilt you can't escape. Matt calls it guilt-onomics. These kids know by instinct what to say to made you feel as lousy as possible. Even when we give in and buy something we still feel bad because someone will come up to us and ask us to buy one of their things. It's not like you're given a button or a badge for giving for the day and that's that. The need is always there. What tears me up more is wondering how can a buck even make that much of a difference?

Matt has a gentle soul and when approached by these kids he talks to them about their lives, about school or about sports. When we asked one girl what she learned in school she replied, I learn to speak tourist. We had kids counting to us in at least 6 different languages. These kids will learn whatever it takes to make one stinking dollar. Minds that could be better applied learning to read are instead forced to learn how to counter an argument why you should by this or that in multiple languages. What I do love about these kids is that more often than not when we refuse them they turn it positive like, "Well if you do buy something buy from me. When you are done visiting the temple then you can decide what to buy."

When you look past the grimey streets and the ramshackle homes and look at the people and their friendliness and humor that's where the true beauty of the land is revealed. The countryside is amazingly lush and green from seas of rice paddies. Houses loom on stilts surrounded by palm trees. Small boys herd water buffalo and cattle down the roads. Bikes totter down the streets at a leisurely pace. Life just seems so beautiful in it's simplicitylost in the noise of the bustling towns. The temples of Siem Reap are as magnificent as anything that I have seen. We went to countless temples that were once devoured by the jungle with viney tentacles still grasping onto some of the structures. Hundreds of stone faces that appear similar but like the Mona Lisa seem to move with you and smile depending on what angle you look at them. I was mostly intrigued by the intricate carvings on the temple walls. Elaborate murals depicting warring monkeys and seas of churning milk. We saw the sun rise over Angkor Wat with a couple hundred of our closet friends. No angle was left unphotographed.

We spent three days visiting as many temples as we could handle. On the third day we revisited a few that we had been to previously. It was nice to go back and look deeper into the images on the walls and the construction of these impressive temples. Often toothless and always shaved to the scalp, little ladies would beckon us to light incense to pray for luck at one of the hundreds of small shrines decorated in the small vestibules of the temples. It's not frowned upon to climb all over the temples, sometimes defying gravity to do so. The rewards are spectacular when the views of the lush jungle and rice paddies reveal themselves. The temples of Siem Reap are a world treasure.

Phi Phi & Railay, Thailand

(September 11-15) Matt and I have absolutely no bargaining skills. None. Our attempts end in us paying close to full price. When the difference is a couple of baht which equates to US chump change we don't get too bothered by our lack of haggling. I am still tramatized from having to sell candy bars door to door as a child and the inevitable rejection of that. How that translates to bargaining rejection I have no idea, I just don't like confrontation.

Our Tuk Tuk driver deposited us at the Ferry Terminal and we were sleuthly approached by a Thai woman selling tickets to Koh Phi Phi. She spoke in hushed tones averting her eyes as though we weren't engaged in conversation merely just occupying the same piece of land at the same time. She quietly begged us to go with her for a reduced rate and we agreed. The ferry took over an hour and was filled with Chinese day-trippers. I burned my tonge on the free coffee and dove into my book.

We'd heard mixed reviews about Phi Phi and off the boat I could understand the negative. The street down the main drag was elbow to elbow with travel agencies and farangs (aka whitey or to be more PC, foreigners). Last time I checked we fall into the farang category too, but there's something romantic about having an island all to yourself and clearly everyone else had the same idea. After some shock at the prices on Ton Sai Beach we took a boat taxi to Rantee beach.
The guide book described nameless bungalows at criminally low rates and we happy at the author's acurateness. For 7 US dollars we got a thatched grass tree house right on the beach with a deck and most importantly a hammock. With a white sand beach, coral reef and a bar right outside our door step we were happy campers. Roosters would rouse us out of sleep and we'd watch the sunrise on damp chairs with puffy eyes.

The rainy season in Thailand doesn't come by that name lightly and we were made acutely aware of the torrent of the downpours on our second day at Rantee and the two days in Railay. The sky absolutely unloaded as we waited for a boat taxi to Raily from Krabi pier. Day went quickly to night and mud just liquified down the streets into the bay. With the rain still coming down, but not as angerly as before, we boarded the long boat and huttled together under the small awning scrunching our faces against the water spraying us and simultaneously beating down on us. We climbed up what felt like ten foot waves every couple of feet and would crash down at various intervals. Scarey alittle, thrilling totally.

Railay and Phi Phi share the uniqueness of limestone formations that droop into the water and over the land like a wet drippy sandcastles. It is a rock climbers Mecca and a spalunker's dream. To avoid the heavy constant raindrops we ventured into the depths of the Diamond Cave and cowered every time we heard the wings of a bat flutter. When the sun managed to break through the gray storm clouds we sat on the beach and watched monkeys play overhead being careful not to get impalled by a discarded corn cob on a stick compliments of the monkeys.

Coup in Thailand

(September 20, 2006)

Mary and I are alive and well in Phuket Island of Thailand.We were staying at a nearby beach bungalow last night without email or tv, so we were a bit out of the loop. We headed back to our friend's home an hour ago. They filled us in on the situation. Here's some history behind the coup.

The Thai King celebrated his 60th anniversary of his coronation earlier this year. He is well loved by the people. He was away at college (MIT?) when he got the call to become King. He spent his early days getting to know the wants and needs of his people- so needless to say he is very well loved. The Prime Minister on the other hand is not very well loved. Alot of people were upset about a telecomunications sale of a Thai company to a Singapore company that was tax free the prime minister stood to make 500 million (people were upset that Thailand was not making money off of this) and apparently there have been multiple calls for early elections (he approximately has 3 years left on his term). The elections were dodgey affairs called on a one-day notice, one of which, people had a choice between him and "nobody", more people checked the box "nobody" than the Prime Minister's name, but he still stayed in power...?

When we flew into Bangkok last month, there was an attempt on his life. There is widespread speculation that he may have planted the attempt himself....Currently the Military coup has the support of the King, and appears most of the Thai people. Essentially the coup is overthrowing the consitiution and restoring more power to the King. It seems that reading reports from the Drudge Report, people were not approving of the method, but were happy that it happened. So given, all this, it seems that things are fairly stable. Governments, banks, schools, and _tvs were shut down today, and our friends (who are teachers) were given the day off. All flights are operating normally.

We will stay abreast of the situation and keep trying to find out about any travel warnings. Our plan is to fly up to Bangkok tommorrow (Thursday), spend the night and then fly to Camobdia the next day (Friday). We'll be in Cambodia for a couple of weeks with the possibility of a detour to Vietnam. We fly back to Bangkok on October 11 and head up to Chang Mai for a few days before making one last stop in Phuket for the Vegetarian Festival and then off to Malaysia on November 1.

Thanks for all of your concern and especially all the love. It's good to know we have eyes everywhere keeping tabs on what's happening in the world. Rest assured knowing that we're probably, like today, on a beach somewhere far from harms way.

Matt & Mary

Unexpected Ljubljana (July 7-10)

Mary and I found ourselves in this enchanted land that we still can't spell after missing a train and a subsequent plane up to London. (Our orignial plan was to spend 1 night in Zagreb, wake up at 5AM to catch a 6 AM train to Ljubljana, to arrive at 9AM, to catch a 45 minute bus ride to the airport to catch our noon flight, but we were stopped when our 6AM train was 2 hours late, and we managed to get on the wrong train, heading in the wrong direction, that did not make its first stop for 45 minutes!!! Needless to say, we missed our flight and limped back to Zagreb. The train conductors were nice enough to not charge us extra for our mistake. We met a pleasant middle aged woman who was commuting to work in Zagreb. She was kind enough to share here experiences of the Croatian war for Independce from 1990-1994. A hefty change fee and 3 days later we were able to fly out of Ljubljana back up to London. Ljubljana was an unexpected surpise. A beautiful train ride from Zagreb, Croatia to Ljubljana, Slovenia included view of the mountains and forrests, as the train followed a river valley. We found a simple, sterile Hosteling International to stay in. 2 lazy days included internet cafes, a beautiful city park and cozy cafes to catch the 3rd place and final game of the world cup with food that was delicious and much cheaper than western Europe.

Phuket, Thailand

(Our Phuket hosts in their Thai-style side car in front of their home)
(Matt, Ao-Sane beach)

(August 30-September 11) It was early and already hot. The A/C had been on all night and I was a bit chilled but relieved not to get eaten alive. The mosquitos are relentless. They are silent stalkers. They strike where I am weakest to scratch the most. My ankles and knuckles are the worst spots and those tiny man-eaters know that. Eric and Debbie, former Peace Corps volunteer friends of mine from Senegal and our trusty guides around Phuket, took us to one of their favorite beach getaways up on the northwest side of the island. From our deserted beach we can see mainland Thailand to the north of us and the ocean to the left of us. With bright billowing clouds ocassionally giving us repreive from the blazing sun we sipped on cold Singha's and bobbed in the brackish inlet.

Matt and I got up early one morning for a dip in the water. Even though the water is the temperature of bath water, it still gives you the shivers just to immerse yourself at 8 am. The day before as I had been walking along the beach snaping photos at anything and everything and I stumbled upon a small temple hidden in the bushes. The brush was jungly with drapping branches and thick leaves. Just before the small temple there was a circular designs with tiny mounds with incense and candles, a sand temple if you will. I felt like I was a trespasser, and in many ways I was, but I couldnt' pull myself away from this discovered place of worship. The morning we went for our walk four bunches of incense were burning down to their red wicks on the beach in front of the entrance to the hidden temple. Depressed in the sand were imprints of knees and two feet together as if they just knelt down right there to offer thanks. I inquired with my friends and they said it must have been an offering to Buddha for a bountiful catch of fish. I am humbled by these small acts of reverence by the Buddhist.

Our days in Phuket, more specially in Rawai at the southern tip of the island, have been spent living as shadows to Debbie & Eric. Aside from following them to school where they work we do what they do, swim where they swim and eat and eat and eat where they eat. It is nice to live in someone elses shoes especially in such a scenic and laid back place like Phuket. Their knowledge of the island is invaluable.

On mornings that Debbie & Eric go to work we play surrogate parents to their two dogs, Pippa and Maddie. Any exposed skin becomes prime licking ground for Maddie. We let the pooches out of the yard to do their business and to sniff the neighborhood dogs. Invariably they know when we want to go for an outing and they are clever to keep their distance. Rounding up the dogs is just another way to kill time which thankfully we have plenty of. The side car is more like a metal cage with a wooden bottom, two wood benches and an open top. It was their primary means to transport their doggies until they got a car. Our hosts trust us with their other scooter which we take on little errands to the store or down to the beach for a picnic and a swim. The scooter takes me back to my days of riding through the bush in Senegal on my motorcycle except here the roads are paved and there's no horse drawn carriages and random goats to compete with on the road.

One of my favorite spots that Debbie & Eric have taken us to is Ao-Sane beach right around the bend from Nai Harn beach. It's a quiet little locals cove with a coral reef teaming with colorful fish. Burned my booty one day snorkeling as the sea sirens sang to me. Under the shade of a palm tree we sit and watch the tiny hermit crabs amble over the sand. Sometimes we cool off with a fresh fruit shake. Life is good, very good.

Bangkok, Thailand

(August 27-31, 2006) We arrived in Bangkok in the middle of the night having lost a complete day traveling. We left in the afternoon on Friday and landed Sunday morning with Saturday lost somewhere over the Pacific Ocean. The twelve and a half hour flight wasn't nearly as tedious as I imagined. I hunkered down with some of my favorite smut mags and read about useless information until it was time to kill more brain cells by watching all three movies China Air was showing. Our 2 hour stop over in Taipei was more painful than anything else. The fluorescent lighting gave me a headache and I just couldn't keep from bobbling my head around trying to find a comfy place to nod off. Another 4 hours before we touched down in Thailand. Both flights were nearly empty so Matt and I marked our territory early and were able to stretch out like two lazy dogs on a cold tile floor.

We shared a cab with a fellow traveler and veteran of Bangkok thinking that would improve our chances of getting to our hotel without getting completely jipped and in one piece. Thailand has a good reputation for being a safe place but at 1 am after traveling for nearly 19 hours it's hard to have good judgement on anything. Our cabbie was a nice young fellow who had no clue where he was going despite the directions Matt printed out in Thai. He giggled and giggled at his directional dysfunction finally stopping and asking directions. 45 minutes later we finally made it to our "guest house" at the Shanti Lodge.

The Shanti lodge is designed for hearty travellers like ourselves. At rates of 15 bucks a night for our own room with A/C and shower it was definitely right up our ally. The setting was also prime to get you into the tropical vibe with cool lighting ala paper lanterns, burl tables, lush plants, koi pond and images of Buddha woven through colorful mosaics climbing around the walls. Their menu was impressive catering to the organic vegetarian but allowing those of us meat lovers to fill our carnivorous cravings. Most mornings we had fresh fruity shakes and in the evenings they would pour alittle booze in the shake and call it a cocktail, we couldn't get enough regardless of what they called it.

Once the jetlag wore off we pounded the muggy streets breathing in the sights and sounds of Thailand. Our first detour took us down through the belly of the a market just beyond the Shanti. If it wasn't bolted down or extinct chances are it was sold at this market. We saw fish, eels, frogs, mussels, eggs, veggies, dry goods, spices, flowers, etc. all magnificently stacked and presented with flair. The Thais take great pride in their presentation of produce and I couldn't help but marvel at it all. Equally as impressive were the various food vendors with their pushcarts and hot woks. For about 20 baht or 50 cents you could walk up to a cart and get a nice piping hot plate of Pad Thai and sit at a little fold up table at a plastic stool and feast away. Matt and I don't speak a lick of Thai so we would approach a stand that looked appetizing and would just sit and motion 2 with our fingers. Having no idea what we were going to be served was an exciting game of chance and it paid off almost every occasion. One night when we were playing the mystery food game we stumbled into a place filled with drunk Thais singing karoke. We dined on a whole deep fried fish smothered in a spicey sweet sauce while savouring the lyrical genius of the inebriated Thais.

Boat taxi became our favorite mode of transportation. A pier was just around the corner from our guest house and we could jump on and float down to the center of town avoiding the hectic streets. The Bangkok streets are bustling with tuk tuks (3 wheeled carts), motorbikes, cars and trucks. They spew an inordinant amount of exhaust and many people walk, ride and drive with make shift masks. Despite what I say about the traffic the streets are well paved and well marked. The lights have timers that count down for drivers letting you know exactly how long you're planted at a light. Since we need to work on our haggling skills we found that boat travel eliminated bargaining and was in fact quite cheap not to mention fun.

Our days were filled visiting many of the hundreds of Wats, or Buddhist Temples, that dot the Bangkok landscape. We saw Buddha sitting, standing, reclining, golden, jade and all manners in between. Thai Wats are a masterpiece in architecture, form, order, color and reverence. They are carefully decorated in bright mosaics of tile, china and glass. Even at night you can see the roof tops and buildings glistening in the light. You don't have to be a buddhist to appreciate their houses of worship. Outside most of the Wats men and women delicately arrange yellow, red and purple flowers as offerings to Buddha. Candles and incense burn in effigy to parents, teachers and loved ones.